Drying flowers is less about technique than about timing and darkness. Cut at the right moment, take the moisture out before mould gets a chance, and keep the light off while you do it, and most garden flowers will hold their shape and much of their colour for a year or more. The method you choose depends on the flower: papery everlastings almost dry themselves, while soft petals need help.
This guide explains the three methods that work at home — air-drying, silica gel and pressing — which flowers suit each one, and how to store the results. If you are deciding what to grow for drying, start with our list of the best flowers for drying.
- Cut on a dry morning, just before the flowers are fully open
- Air-drying small bunches, upside down, dark and airy: 1–3 weeks
- Silica gel soft, open flowers in an airtight box: 2–7 days
- Pressing flat flowers and leaves between paper: 2–4 weeks
When to cut flowers for drying
Flowers keep developing as they dry, so cut them slightly earlier than you would for the vase. Most are best picked when they are about three-quarters open; fully open flowers often drop petals or turn fluffy as they dry. Statice, strawflowers and globe amaranth are the exception to watch: wait until their colour is fully developed, because it will not deepen after cutting.
Pick on a dry day after the dew has gone, choose unblemished stems, and strip the leaves straight away. Leaves hold most of the water in a stem and are the first place mould starts.
Method 1: air-drying, step by step
Air-drying is the easiest method and works for most everlastings, grasses, seed heads and herbs. It is the method behind our guides to drying statice and drying Chinese lanterns.
- Make small bunches Five to ten stems per bunch, staggered so the heads do not touch. Big, tight bunches dry slowly in the middle and go mouldy.
- Tie with a rubber band Stems shrink as they dry; a rubber band tightens with them, where string lets stems slip out.
- Hang upside down Hanging keeps the stems straight and the heads upright once dry. A clothes airer or a string across a room works well.
- Choose a dark, dry, airy place A spare room, airing cupboard or dry shed. Light fades colour fast; damp air causes mould. Avoid kitchens and bathrooms.
- Check after one to three weeks Flowers are ready when the stems snap rather than bend and the petals feel crisp. Thicker stems take longer.
Method 2: silica gel for soft flowers
Silica gel is a granular drying agent sold for flower drying. It pulls moisture out quickly while supporting the petals, so it suits flowers that collapse when hung, such as zinnias, cosmos, dahlias, roses and single blooms you want to keep in their open shape.
Pour 2–3 cm of gel into an airtight box, set the flowers face up on it with a short stem, and spoon more gel gently between and over the petals until they are covered. Close the lid and check after two days; most flowers take two to seven days. Brush off the grains with a soft paintbrush. The gel can be dried out in a low oven and reused many times.
Method 3: pressing flat flowers and leaves
Pressing is the method for flat, delicate material: pansies, violas, larkspur florets, ferns, cosmos petals and autumn leaves. Lay the flowers between sheets of blotting paper or plain paper, not touching, inside a heavy book or a flower press. Add weight on top and leave for two to four weeks, changing the paper after the first few days if it feels damp. Pressed flowers are ideal for cards, pictures and resin crafts.
Air-dry these
Papery, firm or fibrous flowers and seed heads.
- Statice, strawflowers, globe amaranth, xeranthemum
- Larkspur spikes, yarrow, gypsophila, globe thistle
- Nigella and poppy seed heads, honesty, grasses
Use silica gel or pressing
Soft petals that wilt or crumple when hung.
- Zinnias, cosmos, dahlias and roses in silica gel
- Pansies, violas and single florets pressed flat
- Leaves and ferns pressed for cards and pictures
Storing and displaying dried flowers
Sunlight is the main enemy once flowers are dry. Display them away from south-facing windows and they will keep their colour for a year or longer. Humidity is the second: steamy rooms soften dried stems. Store spare bunches loosely wrapped in paper in a box, somewhere cool and dry. A cool hairdryer held at a distance removes dust without damage, and dried stems make the base of a long-lasting dried flower wreath.
Common mistakes
- Cutting flowers fully open. They keep opening as they dry and shed petals.
- Leaving the leaves on. Leaves trap moisture and are where mould starts.
- Bunches that are too big. The centre stays damp. Keep bunches small.
- Drying in daylight. Colour fades within days. Dark rooms give the brightest results.
- Hanging soft flowers. Roses, zinnias and dahlias crumple when hung; use silica gel.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to dry flowers?
Air-drying takes one to three weeks, silica gel two to seven days, and pressing two to four weeks. Thick stems and humid weather add time.
Do dried flowers keep their colour?
Most keep good colour for a year or more if dried and kept out of direct sun. Blues and pinks hold well; whites can turn creamy over time.
Can I dry flowers in the microwave?
It is possible with silica gel in a microwave-safe container, but it is easy to scorch the flowers. For home-grown flowers, air-drying and standard silica gel give more reliable results.
Why did my dried flowers go mouldy?
Usually bunches that were too large, leaves left on, or a damp drying place. Remove the affected stems and dry the rest in smaller bunches somewhere warmer and better ventilated.
Every flower you dry this year is a reason to grow more next year. Browse everlasting flowers, statice, strawflowers and cut flower seeds, see the full seed shop, or explore the rest of our growing guides.
